Nestled among the world’s oldest gingko trees at Kōkoku-ji Buddhist Temple, in a quiet corner of Shinjuku in Tokyo, a cozy temple hosts a digitized Buddha infused, columbarium. Kōkoku-ji is a lovely temple in its own right, so for now, walk past the outer buildings through the tori gates and into the temple proper. To the left of the main shrine is a temple bell and small wabi-sabi cemetery. To the right is an area not quite as small as the cemetery.
It is in this area where you encounter the gigantic ginkgo trees. The ginkgo trees are estimated to be at least 300 years old and none the worse for wear. They still shelter a collection of tombs as they have for eons. Each tree proudly wears a small plaque hung around its think, gnarled trunk proclaiming its estimated age.
Walk back out the tori gate, and on your left, you see the columbarium you past on the way in; this building is the Rurid-en. The outside of the octagonal building mimics a traditional Buddhist burial building with heavy wooden doors and curving eaves, which belies its high-tech innards.
It is home to 2,046 small altars each with a drawer holding the ashes of the deceased atop which seems to float a crystal Buddha. People can visit their deceased loved ones with the help of a smart card which grants access to the building and lights up their corresponding statue. Clutches of flowers are left, but there are no incense sticks or memorial plaques here. The ashes are stored for 33 years before being buried below the structure. Currently 600 of the digitally enhanced altars are in use—and another 300 are reserved. Traditionally, funeral arrangements are left to the family of the deceased, but an increasingly popular trend in Japan is for the aging to prepare their own funerals and graves before they die. The use of a high-tech Buddha topped-niche and subsequent burial costs about the equivalent of 8,000 U.S. dollars, a bargain when compared to the twenty to forty thousand a traditional plot and tomb cost, and without any of the maintenance.
The doors to the columbarium are usually open, but you need a smart card to activate the Buddhas. There will be a caretaker around, just ask and they will happily help. The caretaker will swipe his smartcard, bow to the ancestors within, and viola!, the multitude of Buddhas begin their performance. Plan to spend at least fifteen minutes inside because as the LED warms up, the colors begin to change, at points creating landscapes and other designs. You can discern which Buddhas are in use when they light up white.
The Kōkoku-ji Buddhist Temple is an easy 10-minute walk from West exit of Ushigome-Yangicho Station on the Oedo Line at 2-20 Haramachi, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 162-0053.
Find it on Google Maps by searching for Kōkoku-ji.
GPS: 35°42'01.2"N 139°43'27.2"E
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